Caliber: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.68Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds (in tourbillon), patented one-minute suspended Exo Tourbillon with one arm-bridge at six o'clockDiameter: 38.3mmThickness: 10.60mmPower Reserve: Approximately 50 hoursWinding: Manual windFrequency: 18,000 vphJewels: 19Chronometer Certified: N/AAdditional Details: Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500; screwed balance wheel measures 14.5 mm in diameter; 218 total componentsInstead of disposable, think reliable. A beater is that one kid in every big family that never caused any drama, got good grades, stayed out of trouble, and was always there to bail out their siblings. I know this because I have five siblings and I am certainly not the high-functioning beater of the crew.It would not be a loosely Presidents' Day-themed collection without a Day-Date, of course, this one a "double-quick" from 1988 with a linen-textured dial. A similar "must-have" sentiment surrounds the Vulcain Cricket, as well. In case you missed it, we dropped a solid 18k gold Cricket on Saturday to coincide with Laurie's Weekend Edition, a bit of a vintage Easter Egg for weekend readers. If you're desperately in need of an alarm wristwatch, check out this Royce.Much like the pre-exisiting SRQ035, 037, and the limited edition SRQ041, the Speedtimer SRQ043 has a steel case measuring 42.5mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 50 mm lug to lug. The case, as well as the included steel bracelet, have been treated to Seiko's Super-Hard coating and the SRQ043 also includes a calf leather strap.Back to the inherently more glacial pace of watchmaking, and the idea of dismantling gender labels has started to make its way through to the mainstream. Despite the fact that I don't consider men wearing smaller watches particularly revolutionary, it's a welcome breath of fresh air in a space that seems to have luksus ure so many rules and regulations about what you should and shouldn't be into.Unlike most models in the Rolex catalog, the Air-King isn't a result of incremental, evolutionary changes throughout many years. If you look at a Submariner from 50 years ago, it doesn't look too far off from the one that's out today, and you can say the same thing for a majority of the brand's models. Not with the Air-King. If you were to go by appearances alone, older Air-Kings, specifically ones like the ref. 14000, look a lot more like a modern Oyster Perpetual than a modern Air-King.
I don't usually love two-tone. This may or may not have something to do with the fake iwc pilots watches branded Rolex phrase, "Rolesor," (which is their own special made-up word for the combination of steel and white, yellow, or rose gold). I know we have the world's biggest champion of bi-metal Rolex watches in Danny Milton, but it wasn't until I was able to experience an early 70's steel-and-gold GMT "Root Beer" in person that I started to change my opinion on whether or not these watches were "for me."At 11.24mm thick, it's already a slim watch, but even compared to my Pelagos 39 (which is only 11.8mm thick), the two wear very differently and the 54 both looks and feels much thinner. This is primarily due to how much of the thickness is tied to the crystal and bezel edge rather than in the bulk of the main case structure.In this Reference Points, we'll be looking at all Carreras in what I would describe as the vintage era, which is to say before the acquisition of Heuer by TAG in the mid-1980s, with a few mentions of the special pieces that have come along since, and a few pieces that immediately preceded the actual Carrera family. Let's get into it.Beyond this, the dial opening feels a bit too small in comparison to the case size. If the bezel were slimmed down to make room for a slightly larger dial, it would've gone a long way toward making the midsize Overseas feel a bit larger. A relatively small dial can make a watch wear smaller than it actually is. This is also the consequence of removing the rehaut and seconds track from the 41mm design, which gives the effect of a larger dial.
The biggest surprise is that Lange’s distinctly arced signature perfectly fills the space replica zenith watches usually reserved by the special outsized date complication, with the date instead shown with a hand on the sub-register at nine o'clock (along with the day of the week). Over at three o'clock we have the month display, and at six sits the nested running seconds/moonphase register. If anything, the lack of the outsized date here makes the watch more understated and elegant.Brand: DoxaModel: SUB 300T Divingstar "Poseidon Edition"Diameter: 42.7mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: Yellow with Poseidon logoIndexes: SuperLumi-NovaWater Resistance: 1,200 metersStrap/Bracelet: Solid stainless steel beads of rice bracelet with wetsuit extensionThe modern side of Tudor's contemporary dive watch offerings (the vintage side being the famed Black Bay), the Pelagos is one of the most distinct, professional-grade divers out there. This model is the 2016-launched Pelagos LHD ref. 25610, an extension of the second generation Pelagos design, and complete with its distinct five lines of text on the dial, widely praised in-house movement, and "Left Hand Drive" left-side crown placement.The attitude of letting things go is absolutely a philosophical decision. If I was purely motivated by finances, there are much better things I could do with my money than watches. The act of collecting itself should be philosophical and emotional.The NP20 features a three-pronged quartz crystal and beats with a frequency of 262 kHz. This is eight times greater than your standard-fare quartz, and the result is an accuracy of mere seconds per year. And to be honest, this is a critically underrated fact about this watch when you consider what it wants to represent: a historical homage piece and a fundamentally accurate tool watch.

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