But relishing the knowledge that I had an Bell & Ross Aviation Instruments objective, I threw myself headlong into the adventure.The 18 carat white gold hands and hour markers give a nice contrast to the blue ceramic dial.As expected, Czapek's SXH5 micro-rotor movement powers the Antarctique Purple Storm.I have always been especially bad at predicting what will be announced at watch trade shows. So imagine me sitting at home in my PJs waiting for an early morning email to come in and announce the new Tudor Pelagos GMT (I was so confident...just like last year). Gold and silver? I sure didn’t see that coming.Up until now, all Tudor chronographs were manually wound, featuring one of two Valjoux calibers. With the introduction of the "Big Block" chronographs, we now see self-winding caliber and three registers.
These are replica Oris two skin divers with the same proportions and specs but different dial and bezel designs.It also lacks the hard angles of many of the vintage Cartier watches I'd seen.Now, if this platinum piece is too precious and too pricey for you to wear day in and day out, there's a version of the watch made in Grand Seiko's special Brilliant Hard Titanium (the SBGW259) that's more affordable and durable. Its rich blue dial is stunning, if a bit less versatile, hence my preference for the platinum version.In platinum, $38,000; in gold, $26,000; in Brilliant Hard Titanium, $8,000; more here.I appreciate how distinct the elements are. There is the hour window. There are the two different textures on the dial, and the one hand on the entire watch is a minute hand, and it takes an instant to wrap the old brain around how we are telling time here. But it's also clean and unfussy.
The red gold IWC Portugieser or white gold case embraces the 2652.Si caliber. This selfwinding mechanical movement stands out with its double barrel and the presence of silicon-sculpted components. Moreover, it delivers a power reserve of 68 hours. The sapphire-crystal caseback invites to discover the oscillating weight adorned with an engraving depicting a dragon’s tail.Still, it’s a country where seemingly everyone knows everyone and that means that connections count.Now, what’s your favorite colorway for the off-center stack of rings? Mine is probably green.Each piece hosts a sapphire-crystal caseback featuring Cruz Diez’s signature.Caliber: Panerai Caliber P.6000Functions: Hours, minutes (PAM00753), Hours, minutes, small seconds (PAM000754)Diameter: 34.90mmPower Reserve: 72 hours Winding: Hand-woundFrequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)Jewels: 19However, I can't help but think that by releasing a model in olive-drab green, it's Seiko's way of acknowledging the military connection. We're squarely in the year of the green dial, but it's all the more special when it's rendered on a watch that makes sense.

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